Buttons that no longer respond
Rubber pads wear through and the contacts beneath them stop making a connection. If you find yourself pressing harder each week, the key is on its way out rather than the car being awkward.
Cracked and split key shells
Dropped keys split along the seam, and once the case is open the electronics inside are exposed to pocket lint and moisture. The board and transponder can normally be moved into a fresh shell and a new blade cut to the vehicle.
Bent, worn or snapped blades
Blades wear against the lock over years of use, and a worn one eventually stops turning. A snapped blade — often left half in the door — can usually be replaced while keeping the existing key electronics.
Remotes with poor range
A remote that only works from a metre away is normally a flat cell, a corroded battery contact or a cracked solder joint. Worth checking before assuming a new key is needed.
Flip keys that will not flip
Broken springs and worn pivots leave the blade flopping loose or stuck shut. The mechanism can generally be rebuilt or the assembly swapped.
When repair is not the answer
Water ingress and heavy corrosion on the circuit board usually finish a key off. Where the electronics are beyond saving, a replacement key programmed to the vehicle is the sensible route. If the repaired key needs re-pairing afterwards, that is covered on the key programming page.
A repair is a good moment for a spare
If your only key has just been rebuilt, it is worth adding a spare key at the same visit while a working key exists.
Car Key Not Working?
Call 01962 458094 and describe the fault — we will tell you whether it is repairable.